When the doors open at 8 a.m., the foil-wrapped bundles (just for three) fly out the door by the dozens.
, perfuming the art-filled yellow space with a powerful call to feast — one answered by hungry lines of locals and tourists who begin to gather at 5 a.m.
In the late 1990s, a Puebla man named Efren Pelléz was accidentally left behind in Philadelphia by his coyote smuggler on the way to New York City, walked into David Suro's Center City restaurant Tequila's (the only awning he could find with Spanish words) and asked: "How far is it to New York?
" "He was the first seed planted in Philadelphia," says Suro, who said Pelléz settled and helped launch the Puebla pipeline here before he eventually returned to Mexico where he died.
"30,000 people later ..." The population figures are up for debate, with official 2016 census data counting just under 5,000 living from Christian Street to Oregon Avenue, and 18,612 citywide.
Cheese-stuffed poblano peppers dipped into a meringue-like egg wash and fried to order for chiles rellenos.
A platter of enchiladas rojas glazed in a cuminy red salsa so vividly alive with flavor, it was one the best things I've eaten all year.